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USA and Canada Holiday Hints


Yosemite National Park, California

IMPORTANT NEWS: ROCKSLIDE BLOCKS CALIFORNIA STATE HIGHWAY 140 BETWEEN MARIPOSA AND EL PORTAL - CLICK HERE FOR MORE DETAILS

In my opinion Glacier Point in Yosemite National Park is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the USA and Canada.

Pronunciation

Yo-sem-it-eee

Location

On the western side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, about 150 miles as the crow flies east of San Francisco, although the distance by road is just over two hundred miles.

The approach roads to Yosemite National Park from the west pass through the Sierra National Forest.

Size

1,189 square miles. For comparison, the English county of Lancashire has an area of 1,185 square miles.

What to See and Do

Yosemite Valley

The beautiful steep sided Yosemite Valley is the main attraction for most visitors to the park.

There are several places alongside the road to park and observe the views as you drive into the Valley area from any direction. Along Big Oak Flat Road from California State Highway 120 (from Modesto or the Tioga Pass) and along California State Highway 40 (from Fresno or Oakhurst) the road descends and there are excellent views of the valley below.

Once in the valley there is a one-way road system. This passes through meadows where a stop to admire the views is advised, together with a stroll down to the river.

In the summer of 2000 a new signposting system was introduced in Yosemite Valley. This uses colour coded single letters for each destination, as follows:

A The Ahwahnee Hotel
C Curry Village (day-use parking, snack bar, gift shop, bicycle and raft rental)
i Visitor Centre (information; probably best visited by free shuttle bus after parking elsewhere)
L Yosemite Lodge
V Yosemite Village (day-use parking, shops, restaurants, bank)
After parking at the Day Use Parking Areas at Curry Village or Yosemite Village, or anywhere else on the route, you can take one of the free shuttle buses to the various Valley areas including Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, the Visitor Centre and Yosemite Falls. Photograph (77KB). The shuttle bus loop route will take you to all the areas in the valley and you can freely hop on and off wherever you please and as many times as you wish at any official stop. There is only one main shuttle bus loop in Yosemite Valley, so all buses visit all stops. However, in some places you do need to consult the map at each stop to see which direction of bus will take you to where you wish to go quickest. From Curry Village, buses leaving from the stop on the side of the road next to the parking area first visit Happy Isles and Mirror Lake, while those leaving from the stop on the side of the road furthest from the parking area first visit Yosemite Village, the Visitor Centre and Yosemite Falls before returning to Curry Village at the other stop and then proceeding to Happy Isles and Mirror Lake. Shuttle bus route (summer 2000): Yosemite Village/Day Parking, Yosemite Village, Visitor Centre, Yosemite Falls, Yosemite Lodge, Visitor Centre, Yosemite Village, Yosemite Village/Day Parking, Sentinel Bridge/Yosemite Chapel, Housekeeping/LeConte Memorial, Bike and Raft Rental, Curry Village/Day Parking (the stop closest to the parking area), Upper Pines Campground, Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, Stable, Pines Campgrounds, Curry Village/Day Parking (the stop on the opposite side of the road to the parking area), Bike And Raft Rental, Yosemite Village/Day Parking. A separate shuttle bus service now serves the Ahwahnee Lodge from Yosemite Village.

Bridal Veil Falls

Although the bottom of Bridal Veil Falls lies within the Valley it is not on the shuttle bus route. It is located on the road to Fresno (California State Highway 41), very shortly after the junction where this road leaves the Valley one-way system.

Road to Fresno (California State Highway 41)

There are some impressive views over the valley on this road, especially near the tunnel.

Outside the park on this road is the Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad which offers tourists trips through the forest. However, not all the trains are pulled by steam engines.

Glacier Point

The road to Glacier Point is a turning off the road to Fresno. At Glacier Point there are magnificent views of Half Dome and the valley floor far below. Photograph (117KB).

It is well worth the drive up to Glacier Point.

This road is closed in winter - see the "Winter Access" section below for details.

Update: According to a report in USA Today 28-Mar-03, the Park Service are advising visitors to stay away from a growing crack in the rock face below Glacier Point because of the potential for a rock fall and the area will be closed if it is unsafe. The story didn't state whether the whole of Glacier Point is affected or just part of it.

Wawona

Wawona is located on the Fresno road, inside the park and not far from the entrance.

At Wawona there is a collection of historic buildings to wander round, plus a short covered bridge which can be crossed on foot, and stage coach rides for children.

Mariposa Grove

The Mariposa Grove of giant sequoia trees is located inside the park, very close to the entrance on the Fresno road. Because parking at the grove is extremely limited, you should park at Wawona and take the free shuttle bus to the grove. On the way up to the grove the shuttle bus driver provides some useful background information about the trees. This shuttle bus route is completely separate to the shuttle bus route in Yosemite Valley and only has two stops, namely Wawona and Mariposa Grove.

At Mariposa Grove you can walk up on the trail or the road through the trees to the Grizzly Giant, a particularly large tree. Alternatively you can take a tram tour, for which there is a charge ($4 per adult and $3.50 for senior citizens, as at summer 1998). We felt you could see far more by walking than by taking the tram ride; the trail is not difficult.

Road to Modesto and Manteca (California State Highway 120)

There are several excellent views of the valley and some waterfalls along this road.

Hetch Hetchy

Hetch Hetchy is reached by leaving the park on the Modesto/Manteca road, then turning right and re-entering the park. There is a separate entrance booth for the Hetch Hetchy area but a valid pass obtained at any other entrance to the park will gain you free entrance here.

There is then a pleasant drive to Hetch Hetchy itself, where there is the most impressive O'Shaughnessy Dam and reservoir. You can walk across the dam (but not inside it) and continue through a tunnel on the other side for more views.

The reservoir provides water for the San Joaquin Valley and the city of San Francisco.

Tioga Pass Road (California State Highway 120)

The highly scenic Tioga Pass Road over the Sierras is well worth taking if you have the time, stopping along the way to admire Tuolumne Meadows. Don't underestimate the length of this road. Most travellers on this road will use it as a means of crossing the Sierras. This road is closed in winter - see the "Winter Access" section below for details.

Some Distances

These distances are very approximate.

Winter Access

Yosemite National Park can be accessed from both the east and the west during the summer, but only from the west during the winter because the Tioga Pass Road (the section of California State Highway 120 through the Park) is always closed throughout the winter. The closure and reopening dates depend entirely on weather conditions and so cannot be predicted.

The Yosemite Valley area on the western side of the park is open year-round but in winter snow chains or snow tyres may be required in order to reach it.

The Tioga Pass road usually reopens around the end of May although in 1998 it didn't open until early July due to an extreme winter caused by El Niño. The current condition of this and any other road in California can be obtained from the excellent official California Department Of Transportation (CalTrans) Current Highway Conditions site (external link verified Nov-02).

The current state of the roads in the park can also be viewed on this page of the National Park Service web site (external link verified May-02).

Both the CalTrans site and the Yosemite National Park section of the National Park Service site have pages listing the opening and closure dates of the Tioga Pass (as at May-02, CalTrans back to 1995 and NPS back to 1980; first URL verified Nov-02; second URL verified Dec-05). While these two sources of information are consistent regarding opening dates they differ quite markedly regarding closure dates and I do not know why this should be.

The Tioga Pass opened on the following dates in recent years:

Year Date
1994 25-May
1995 30-Jun
1996 31-May
1997 13-Jun
1998 1-Jul (1998 was an El Niño year)
1999 28-May
2000 18-May
2001 12-May
2002 24-May
2003 31-May
2004 14-May

In recent years the earliest closure date of the Tioga Pass was the 17th of October (2004) and the latest closure date was the 15th of December (2000).

If the Tioga Pass is closed then there are various alternative passes further north which might be open. See Winter Road Closures in California for more information. Of these roads, I-80 is by far the most likely route to be kept open and to be reopened first after heavy snowfall, followed by US50. However, these roads may require snow chains or snow tyres in winter conditions.

To the south, the next pass is County Road 341 east of Porterville, very much a backroad and I would think extremely likely to be closed if the Tioga Pass is closed. Next is the Lake Isabella road, California State Highway 178, which again I would think is extremely likely to be closed if the Tioga Pass is closed. I would not suggest trying either of these roads in winter conditions unless you have local knowledge. Then continuing south comes the Tehachapi Pass, California State Highway 58, east from Bakersfield, which being so far south, a main route and rather lower in altitude I would guess is only closed for short periods in the worst of conditions. This is however an enormous diversion compared with the Tioga Pass.

The road to Glacier Point in Yosemite National Park is closed in winter. It normally reopens in mid to late May, or in June in extreme years. It normally reopens around the same time as the Tioga Pass. In 1998 (an El Niño year) it was still closed in mid June but this was regarded as being most unusual. This page of the National Park Service web site includes information on the current state of this road (external link verified May-02).

Plan to Ban Private Vehicles

The following news story appeared in the Daily Brief on 26-Nov-97: "Interior Secretary Bruce Babbitt announced plans yesterday to ban most automobile traffic from Grand Canyon, Yosemite and Zion national parks by 2000. The measure was reportedly prompted by the overcrowding and polluting of the parks."

Access to the park for visitors will presumably be provided by buses.

There have been plans to ban cars from Yosemite Valley for many years. While this would be both highly desirable and quite feasible for day use visitors, it doesn't seem to me to be a realistic proposition for people staying in the camp sites.

There have also been plans to introduce reservations for day use during the summer. Apparently this was tried during the summer of 1997 but was withdrawn due to general public objection to it.

The Flood of 1997

Early in Jan-97 the Merced River caused a massive flood in Yosemite Valley. At the time there was considerable damage but by the summer of 1998 there was not all that much evidence of the flood: However, the flood has in no way diminished the beauty of Yosemite.

The cost of repairing the damage caused by the flood is a major reason for the increase in the entrance charge to $20.

Entrance Fee

Entrance fee for a normal car, including the driver and all passengers, for seven days, as at summer 2000: $20.

Some Ideas for Places to Stay

In The Area

News Stories

Yosemite National Park To Adopt Hybrid-Powered Buses - 21-Aug-04

Hybrid engines using both diesel fuel and electric power will be used to run some buses in Yosemite National Park a move aimed at curbing emissions in the nature preserve. Eighteen of the new 40-foot buses are scheduled to go into service in the park in May 2005. All will operate with diesel-electric hybrid engines from General Motors Corp.

The new buses offer up to 60% greater fuel economy and 90% cleaner emissions than diesel buses. The diesel-electric hybrids are also quieter than traditional designs.

Hybrids draw power from two energy sources, typically a gas [petrol] or diesel engine combined with an electric motor.

CALIFORNIA STATE HIGHWAY 140 BLOCKED BY ROCKSLIDE BETWEEN MARIPOSA AND EL PORTAL - 12-JUN-06

In June 2006 a rockslide blocked California State Highway 140 between Mariposa and El Portal. The exact location is reported by CalTrans as being twenty miles east of Mariposa and by the National Park Service as ten miles west of El Portal.

A six-mile diversion via a temporary bridge and a partially unpaved road is now (2-Sep-06) available, with alternate one-way traffic. The maximum length of vehicles permitted is 28ft. According to some sources this diversion is open 24 hours per day, while other sources say it is only open from dawn until dusk. This contradictory information is probably due to web sites not yet being updated with the latest developments. Note that most rental car companies forbid the driving of their vehicles on unpaved roads; doing so will void all insurance and CDW/LDW. This diversion is therefore most definitely not recommended for visitors with rental cars.

The only available alternative routes involve considerable diversions via Coulterville (to the north) or Oakhurst (to the south).

Anyone planning to visit the area should check on the following web sites for up-to-date information before travelling:

Visitors already in the area can access the CalTrans highway information phone number, 1-800-427-ROAD (1-800-427-7623) (from within California and western Nevada only) or 1-800-427-7624 (from outside California only) or 1-906-445-1534 or 1-916-445-7623.

There is a Chamber Of Commerce information centre in Mariposa, near the intersection of California State Highways 140 and 49. This is probably the best local source for up-to-date information.

External Links

California Department Of Transportation (CalTrans) - Current Highway Conditions

To obtain information on the Tioga Pass, enter road number 120. Verified Nov-02.

California Department Of Transportation (CalTrans) - Mountain Pass Winter Closure Dates

New URL, verified Dec-05.

US National Park Service - Yosemite National Park, California - Current Road Conditions

Verified May-00.

US National Park Service - Yosemite National Park, California - Current Road Conditions

Verified May-02.

US National Park Service - Tioga Pass Closure Dates

Verified May-02.
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As with all the other pages on this personal web site, all the information on this page is solely the opinion of the author, who has no connection whatsoever with any of the companies and organisations mentioned other than as an actual or potential customer.
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Most recently modified 2-Sep-06